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[ 15 Jan 2013 | Comments Off on Volcano, cloud forest, and all sorts of wild things ]

MONTEVERDE, Costa Rica — I have always had a peculiar way of relaxing: This time, I would hurl myself into the arms of God, entrusting life and limb to a 150-foot rope as I swung like Tarzan in the forests of Central America.
I had come to Costa Rica hoping for a respite from the breakneck pace of covering national politics, including the presidential campaign, for The Globe’s Washington bureau. And here I was about to possibly break my neck.
For a week, Costa Rica would be my playground. I zip-lined, rappelled …

Asia, Featured »

[ 30 Apr 2011 | Comments Off on Commotion in perpetual motion ]
Commotion in perpetual motion

Hanoi is an overwhelming grid of narrow streets choked with motorbikes, tourists and makeshift sidewalk eateries. Taxis blare their horns, motorbikes rev their engines and a cacophony of voices echo through the alleys.
Cheap hotels, bars and travel agencies line the streets. Women in cone hats wander around Vietnam’s capital to hawk fruit and local delicacies. The merchandise fill baskets hung from wooden poles slung atop stooped shoulders.
The streets are teeming. The scene is bewildering for the uninitiated. [Watch video: Motion Sickness.]
I had been to Ho Chi Minh City, but never to …

Asia, Featured, ICFJ Reporting Fellowship »

[ 15 Apr 2011 | Comments Off on When in Laos, do as … ]
When in Laos, do as …

It began with a sprinkle of powder, lightly tossed into my hair. Then a handful of fine tapioca starch smeared from cheek to jaw. Then a blast of powder into my ear and sunglasses.
Water came next.  Then black grease.
I was being tarred and feathered, Lao style, in celebration of Bun Pi Mai, the start of the New Year in this mostly Buddhist country.
It was New Year’s Eve and Luang Prabang erupted into pandemonium. On a sandy island in the Mekhong River roamed a hoard of zombies – faces whitened with …

Asia, Featured, ICFJ Reporting Fellowship »

[ 13 Apr 2011 | One Comment ]
Giving alms

A flow of saffron-colored robes fills the streets every morning in this town of gilded temples. The roads line with tourists as the procession of Buddhist monks open their baskets to receive alms from the townspeople of Luang Prabang, most of them women who sit on plastic chairs or who kneel on gravel to offer pinches of sticky rice. The procession happens just outside the door of my hotel room.
The monks march barefooted, in silence, gliding through the streets to fill their baskets.
Tourists snap photos. Some walk alongside the brightly colored …