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Home » Asia, Featured, ICFJ Reporting Fellowship

When in Laos, do as …

15 April 2011 No Comment

It began with a sprinkle of powder, lightly tossed into my hair. Then a handful of fine tapioca starch smeared from cheek to jaw. Then a blast of powder into my ear and sunglasses.

Water came next.  Then black grease.

I was being tarred and feathered, Lao style, in celebration of Bun Pi Mai, the start of the New Year in this mostly Buddhist country.

It was New Year’s Eve and Luang Prabang erupted into pandemonium. On a sandy island in the Mekhong River roamed a hoard of zombies – faces whitened with powder or dirtied with grease. Water fights erupted, bazookas dipping into the river to reload their flow of ammunition.

The more peaceful, sculpted cone-shaped stupas, decorating with flowers, as a merit to the holiday.

Throughout town, a water brigade lined streets. Some revelers splashed water from the back of pickups, dousing folks on sidewalks. Music blared from oversized speakers, punctuating the festive vibe.


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